Wednesday, September 10, 2014

FINAL DESTINATION - ST. PETERSBURG

We arrived at the terminal and proceeded directly to customs.  It's always interesting going into Russia.  This was my second time.  As I approached the custom's officer and handed her my passport, she looked very carefully at the picture and at me.  That picture was taken in 2006 - sans wrinkles, jowls, etc.  After studying me she carfully perused every entry in my passport which is quite a few.  ( I had new pages put in my passport before this trip because it was pretty much filled.)  Finally she let me pass and than let Sharon pass rather quickly.  I had smoothed the way, so to say.  

We got onboard and got settled.  Not much settling in since we were only going to spend 2 nights on the ship and there really is no room to put anything and one can wear the same clothes two days in a row - can't they?  So we went out to explore the ship a bit. 


Outside the Rabbit Bar.

Absolutely stunning pictures - Christmas card maybe?  I think I'll think about that.

Enjoying the deck.


Our room was not a place you wanted to spend a lot of time so we found the lounge at the front or maybe back of the ship so we could watch our departure from Helsinki.  Another ship was being loaded for a journey and it was fun just to see large trucks , a lot of large trucks, and mulitple buses drive on to the ship before the cars loaded.  While we were watching a piano player started to play music of many Russian composers.  He was spectacular.  After he quit however they started a music video of Madonna.  One  my age can only take so much of Madonna so we left the lounge and found a quieter table outside the Rabbit Bar which also had music blaring. 

We had prearranged our dinners onboard.  We didn't know there were a number of restaurants onboard, but even so this seemed like a fine idea.  We were set to eat during the first sitting which went from 6:30 - 8:00.  At 6:20 we went to eat and found that the dinner was being served on Russian time , so it was now 7:20 so we ony had 40 minutes to eat but they would be happy to switch us to the second seating.  Since the meal was buffet we thought 40 minutes was plenty of time to eat.  Almost immediately a glass of champagne and a shot of vodka were brought to your table.  They were both good quality by my standards - I'm neither a vodka or champagne fan  but they tasted good to me.  After that the meal went pretty much downhill.  I can't explain.  There was certainly plenty of it and the gravlax and the pates  were very good but the rest  - salads stuff - just OK and the main dishes - turkey, beef stroganoff, white fish,  and some pork dish were blah.  Vegetables were overcooked and the bread was just OK after being spoiled the rest of the trip with such wonderful bread.  They also had cavier and mussels which were OK. They did have ice cream for dessert and a few other sweets.  The other thing I observed is the crew were hard workers, provided good service but no one seemed happy - no smiles, no engaging in conversation.  Very different from the other ships we were on.  They did provide a white and red wine that you could help yourself to.  There was only 1 choice of red and 1 choice of white wine on board  and that included all the lounges. I do know my wines and these were OK at best.  Obviously wine is not the Russians drink of choice.  That's OK, but I can't live there then.

After dinner we went to turn in our voucher for the tour the next day.  The desk was manned  by two young people who were very knowledgeable but all business.  We got our tickets and the procedure to  follow in the morning to get on the tour was explained.  

We also asked about WIFI and found that on this particular ship WIFI would cost $7.00 ( I believe it was dollars when you signed on) an hour to sign up.  On all the other ships one deck had free WIFI available to all.  ( I just mention this because it was a little different than the norm.  I did notice that next week we are staying in a 5 star Hilton Hotel in Berlin and as I was reading I noticed they charge 25 Euro for WIFI per day. Every hotel that we stayed in on this trip which were very nice hotels but not luxury ones per say, all had free WIFI.)  Leave it to the Americans and the Russians - ha

The next morning we woke up and were a little hungry so we rushed off to breakfast.  Again, the food just wasn't that good.  Again I ate the pate and the salmon which was very good.  They had yogurt but no items to put on it.  

Anyway, It's was just interesting and this is only my observation and my feelings.  
I did not engage in conversation with anyone about how they felt about the food.

We got to our meeting area and the young people from the tour desk accompanied us to the car llevel of the ship and waited for the ship to dock. Again,notice hey did not engage with us.  I decided to make it a point to talk to that young man everytime I went by his desk and by the end of the trip he acknowledged me when I walked by.  He almost smiled, once.
 When they opened the door they accompanied us to customs where we gave them our passports to check and our arrival cards which served instead of a visa.  We did learn that one can stay in Russia for 72 hours if you leave from Helsinki and stay in a Russian hotel.  It is a very long process to obtain a visa so this is a great way to see St. Petersburg without going through all the paperwork to obtain a visa.

We met with our guide, Olga, on the otherside of customs and proceeded to the van. There were only 8 of us who were actually going on the tour and a few others we dropped off at their hotels.  Olga was a very knowledgeable and personable guide.  We learned that her father had been in the military and that her daughter had been a foreign exchange student in the US.  Unfortunately I forgot to ask her where,  She was pretty open about life in Russia.  


This was the scene as you walked out of customs.


That's St. Nicholas Cathedral Dome.

I took this picture because the building was large, quite lovely except all the windows were boarded up.

Mariinsky Opera and Ballet Theater.  This was known as the Kirov Opera and Ballet theater during Soviet times but reverted to its original name in 1992.  The building and the auditorium were severly damaged during the 900 day Siege of Leningrad but were restored in 1944.


St. Nicholas Cathedral.Since the 18th century the Naval Cathedral of St. Nicholas has been actively involved in the life of the Russian Fleet.  We were allowed inside to view the first floor but no pictures were allowed.  The cathedral ws built by  request of Prince Golitsyn who advised Empress Elizabeth to build a temple in honor of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of the seasfarers in St. Petersburg to commemorate the memory or the glorious deeds of the Russian Navy.  Construction went from 1753 to 1762.  By Catherine the Great's decree, 10 icons in the memory of Russian sea victories over Sweden nad Turkish fleets were placed within the Cathedral.  





This is the 4 level bell tower with a thin gilded spire which I proceeded to cut out of this picture since I was focusing on Sharon.  In the next picture you can see the spire


And I was there!

These two pictures were taken for obvious reasons.


St. Petersburg is listed as one of the ten most beautiful cities.   It could be, but it's in dire need of paint and repair.  As Sharon puts it -- "it's tired".  The city was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great.

During the war with Sweden in 1703 Peter the Great needed to protect the newly conquered lands on the Neva Delta.  He constructed a Fort on the Island of Enisaari.  That day became the founding date of St. Petersburg and several days later a wooden cabin was built for Peter the Great.  The builders of the fortress worked in very primative conditions and and good housing was nonexistent.  They died in great numbers.  By August of that  year the new settlers had experiencd the infamous St. Petersburg floods.  Due to the boggy nature of the terrain, the area was considered unhealthy for a town but it had tremendous strategic importance, so Peter the Great kept constructing the city depite the losses.  In 1712 it had grown enough to become the capital of Russia. When Peter died in 1725, his wife, Catherine assumed power and the city experienced a short decline.  For a short time the royal court moved back to Moscow.  In 1741 when Peter's daughter, Elizabeth became Empress, St. Petersburg became a lively European capital and reached a population of 150,000 people.  


The fortress still stands today.  It is called the Peter and Paul Fortress  and here you can see the steeple of the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which is the burial place for members of the Romanov Imperial House, including Peter the Great. 

The fortress became one of the most severe prisons of Russia.  Behind its walls languished Tsarevich Alexis, the son of Peter the Great, the Decembrists, the Bolsheviks and many other prisoners.  



This is the home of Peter the Great.  Peter the Great was a big man but loved to live in small places.  In Peterhoff which was his Summer Palace he elected not to live in the palace but had a small house built near the water some distance from the palace.


One of the statues of Peter the Great.



This was the home of Rasputim, the peasant, mystic, faith healer and private adviser to the Romanov's.  Although much of his influence over the Romanov's is probably exaggerated historians generally agree that his presence played a significant part in increasing the unpopularity of the tsar and his family resulting in the downfall of the Russian Monarchy.  Rusputin was killed as he was seen by both the left and the right to be the root cause of the Russia's despair during World War I.


This is the former Marinsky Palace which now is the seat of the Legislative  Assembly for St. Petersburg.  It was originally built as the imperial residence of the Grand Duchess Marie, daughter of Nicholas I.  It was built between 1839 and 1844,  Since 1945 the palace has belonged to the local government.
This statue is of the Grand Duchess Father and she was not particularly happy with it since this was her view of him.  Nobody likes a horse's a.......





A couple of entrepreneurs.  For 5 euro you could have your picture taken with them.


There are two Magnificent sphinxes on Universiteskaya Naberezhnaya in front of the Academy of Fine Arts.  They are roughly 3500 years old and are considered among the finest examples of Ancient Egyptian colosssal sculpture outside Egypt.  They once stood in the Alley of Sphinxes in front of the tomb of one of the Pharoah's.  The sphinxes were purchases from the French Egyptologist Jean-Francois Champolion at the beginning of the 1830's on behalf of the RussianEmperor.  The sphinxes weigh around 23 tons each. 


The sphinx's have been restored several times during their sojourn in Russia and the suggestion has been raised to bring them into the Hermitage  to protect them from the harsh climate.  For now they remain among the greatest monuments of the city, a piece of history along the banks of the Neva.
Me again!


  The Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
                                       The picture is of Nikas Safronov a famous Russian Artist.  He has done portraits of The russian Prime Minister, Sophia Loren, Robert DiNiro, Elton John and many others.  His works can be found in many museums and private collections.  More than 700 can be found outside Russia.  A master of self promotion, Safronov is also known for his numerous love affairs and active socializeing.  

I was just curious who he was so when I googled him I found out a little and also saw some of his portraits which are really very lovely and fasinating.


This is one of the two Rostral Columns in the center of St. Petersburg, on the Spit of Vasilevsky Island. In the XIX century they carried out the function of beacons of the northern capital.  The beacons were lite at night and in the fog and were used up to 1885.  

The foundations of each column is decorated with huge figures which symbolize sea and commerce deities.  

The Flying Dutchman.   A luxury restaurant and fitness center.  Had to take a picture of that - it is a replica of the famous Dutch ship!


We next stopped at a lovely shop to have a toilet break and they had a nice souvenir shop with lovely things.  Faberge Eggs replica's and Matryoshka dolls were just a few.  They also had free coffee and vodka.

                                     

  Michael Forbes who had the largest colleection of Faberge Eggs in the world put the collection up for auction in 2004 and the entire collection was bought by a wealthy Russian who then  I believe gave them to the state and there is a new museum which houses this entire collection. 

Right outside the shop I took these pictures.




We continued on the tour and Olga told us many interesting things which again I can only remember a few.  In a bleak and cold city like St. Petersburg that has fewer than 60 days of sunshine the gold domes of the Cathedrals offer sunshine to its inhabitants.  St. Petersburg is home to many immigrant refugees.  The population is over 5 million people.  There is not enough housing and people live in communal housing- each family having a room and sharing a kitchen and other common areas.  In order to make any changes to the house i.e. put in a bathroom, all must approve of the plan.  Because of suspicion often a consensus can not be found and repairs and improvments are not done. Mortgage rate is 14 1/2 %  and the average salary is $700.00 a month .  The state pension is $300.00 a year.  The military average salary is $2500.00 a month. People do not eat out - although younger people are more optimistic and can be seen in restaurants.  

This is a military academy and because of the good salaries for military personnel, getting in is highly competitive and children of military personnel generally have first priority despite their competitiveness. 

This is one of the lovely green areas in St. Petersburg.

This is the Hermitage - the Winter Palace.  More of that later as we have a 2 hour tour after our tour of the city.

I took this picture because it is one of the few modern buildings I saw in the city.  I have no idea what is houses.



The Church of the Spilled Blood as seen from a distance.


This marvelous Russian style church was built on the spot where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in March 1881.  Alexander initiated a number of reforms - freed the serfs, and undertook a number of rigorous military, judicial , and urban reforms never before attempted in Russia.  However, in the second half or his reign he became wary of the dangers of his reforms having barely survived a number of assassination attempts.  He was finally assassinated  in 1881 by a group of revolutionaries who threw a bomb at his royal carriage.  

A decision to build the church on the spot where he was mortaly wounded was made and the curch was built between 1883-1907 ( The Church of our Savior on Spilled Blood).  The consturction was almost entirely funded by the Imperial famiy and thousands of private donors.  The church was closed for several years in the 1930's when Bolsheviks went on an offense against religion and destroyed churches all over the country.  It remained closed for over 30 years and was finally reopened in 1997.
It was  used as a place to store vegetables for a long time after the revolution.  We didn''t have an opportunity to go inside the church this trip but I have been inside on a previous trip.  It is truly something to see.  


Another, I am here!


This completed our tour of the city and we on our way to the Hermitage. 


























































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