These are not the most interesting things for anyone to read but looking at these pictures will trigger some good memories for me I think.
I had this picture left over from our trip to Vienna and I just couldn't delete this picture without putting it somewhere.
The magnolias were in bloom and this cake with its beautiful magnolia blosoms was just absolutely beautiful.
One lovey evening we justs set out to have a glass of wine in the old city and stopped at this lovely little place which with a glass of wine you also got all this food. I think the cost was 8 euro's for the wine but really it came with dinner.
We each got a plate of "sandwiches" along with the chips and olives. Unfortunately we had eaten dinner already. Next time we'll just eat here.
( We did this one night a few days later. We each ended up ordering two wines and with each wine we got a plate of sandwiches, chips and olives. Let me tell you by 8:00 I was hungry. It doesn't a dinner make!)
On this partifccular evening we enjoying a bottle of wine on our patio and I decided we should capture the evening with pictures of us using my selfie stick. I have had a terrible time getting the pictures to take.You can see me grimacing trying to push the button on the stick. What a face!
We first noticed all the wreaths around the square and particularly at this memorial site. The thing that really strikes you as you look closely at this wall of pictures is the age of most of these resistance fighters. So young.
All was not solemn however. As we walked from the square we thought we heard a band and so waited to see if they were coming our way. When I saw the crowd wasn't moving we walked on down the street and witnessed a wonderful performance by this "clown".
After watching him for quite awhile we continued down the street and got into a ittle trouble in an Italian purse store - Coccinelle. Such lovely Italian leather. They must have had every bag out showing us the different styles. I felt so badly that they had really made a mess of their store I felt obligated to buy two purses, a watch that matches one of the purses, and two lovely silk scarfs. I resisted and didn't buy the jewelry they pulled out.
After leaving the store we headed home - my bag was really, really heavy :-)! We didn't make it too far when we heard some music. Well we had to explore that. Right in front of the cathedral were people doing what I guess would be folk dances. What fun! Good music and lots of particpants.
The lady with the scarf in the Italian national colors around her neck in must have been some kind of an official. She was walking around with a very authoritative air about her. The dancing was still going strong when we headed up the street and stopped to get a cup of cappuccino before heading home.
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What better thing to do than learn to make pasta while in Italy. Sharon and I signed up for a one hour class to learn just that. CIBO ( Culinary Institute of Bologna) offered just such a class.
Our class started at 5:00 and as usual we were just a little early so we sat staring at the ingredients on the table - flour and eggs.
I snapped a few pictures of the restaurant.
Here's Sharon waiting patiently. I of course had to jump around and take pictures and look and see what was going on.
A couple of "staged photo's" before the class began.
Pretty soon Mattio arrived - cute! He was very patient with us also.
We started with 1 1/2 cups of flour and two eggs. ( Special eggs with very orange yolks. The hens are only fed dorn and that's what makes the yok so orange).We first separated a bit of the flour and pushed aside than made a bowl with the flour and cracked the eggs and put them in the middle of the flour bowl and scrambled the eggs. As we did so we incorporated a bit of the flour. We continued doing that until all the flour was incorporated and than we worked with our hands. The remaining flour was used to put on top of the "ball" and we would fold and push and flour, fold and push and flour until finally it was just "perfect". Than we wrapped it for a while to let it rest. Next we rolled and rolled and rolled.
Perfect yellow balls.
Receiving instruction on how to roll it even thinner after making a nice circle with the ball.
Once the desired thickness or I should say thinness was made the pasta was rolled up and thancut into one of three kinds of pasta depending on how wide you made it - pappardelle ( wide) tagliatelle( medium) and tagliolini ( thin).
Sharon made tagliatelle...
I made tagliolini...
Once all the pasta was cut. We unrolled it and than grabbed some strands in our hands and wrapped it around making a nest with the noodles.
Done - perfecto!!!!
The best part was getting to eat the finished product. Sharon's noodles, tagliatelle was sauced with a ragu bolognese sauce and mine were done with a pancetta, and butter sauce. We enjoyed them with a bottle of red wine and what could be better. To finish we had a little strawberry and marscapone dessert. We ate it all before I rememberd I hadn't taken a picture of it. Oh well, another time. I'm returning to take a full day course after we get back from Switzerland.
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MAY 7
Today I received word that a very dear friend of mine had passed away. Yesterday I got a call that she was not doing well so I gave her a call and had the care giver put the phone to her ear so I could say goodbye. I feel so blessed that I was given this opportunity.
I met my friend Ruth when I moved to River Run. Three single women were invited to the club for lunch by the real estate agent for the development so we could meet. River Run was brand new. More vacant lots than houses at that time. The three of us hit it off. We were dubbed as the "Golden Girls and than as the number of our friends increased we became the Village Diva's. ( The section of the development we were in was called "The Village").
Today I was on the train going to Verona for the Day when I read the email that Ruth had passed away. I couldn't help but reflect and remember the "good times". The first outing for the "Golden Girl's was to Metroliner at Ruth's invitation. What fun we three had. From that moment on we just bonded. Ruth and Pat are about 15 years older than I am but boy they were both young at heart and spirit. Our first years in RR we had wonderful dinner party's which also included some couples that we met. We were always looking for an excuse to throw a party.
Every year the three of us and maybe another "diva" would head over to Moorhead City on the coast to spend a few days in Ruth's sister's condo. We'd sit on the deck and watch the Navy ships load and unload gear. Our first meal was generally in the condo and Ruth would thaw out some of her Brunswick stew which we learned to look forward to. After that we'd hit the restaurant scene. Always finding some great places to eat.
We all loved good food. Ruth had some good friends who came over to visit her and he was a salesman for Southern Foods. I'm sure the three of us made him the salesman of the month when he came to visit. We bought a box of everything. Sometimes we'd split a box but often we'd just buy a full box of steaks, halibut, duck, sea bass, etc. Had to have food for our dinner partys.
Ruth was a sports fan and soon after our first year there Ruth and I got tickets to the Davidson College Basketball games. Up until I left on this journey Ruth and I attended most games and we learned to really like those boys on the basketball team. We sat right behind their bench. We were big fans. They were smart, considerate, and overall just very respectful. Of course when Steph Curry showed up at Davidson we watched him from game one. As his reputation spread more and more people came to the games. We watched the stadium fill game after game. It was such a fun ride all the way to the final 8 and we always kept tabs on Steph and watched his professional career as well as other team members. We always said it was like watching and following your own kids.
Ruth always looked like a milion bucks. The hype of fashion. I'd pick her up for games and she'd have on her "fur" vest. Of course she had a friend that had a clothing store in Swansboro near Moorhead city and she introduced us to Betty and her shop. We always got in a little trouble in there.
Ruth was also a darn good bridge player and we spent many an hour together over the bidge table.
So when I think of Ruth - I think gracious, generous, fun, a little bit devilish, and above all kind.
Oh Ruth, You graced my life. How lucky I am to have had you as a part of it. I will miss you my dear dear friend!
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We have a fabulous little restaurant located just a few doors down from us - Osteria Broccandosso. We frequent it once a week at least and they have gotten to know us and are always generous with adding some extra's to our meal. We just come in around 7:15 when they open and get a table as long as we're out of there by 9:00. That's when the Italians eat and they are always fully booked. It works for us.
The owner is in the blue shirt. He comes over to our table and greets us and talks to us in Italian and we smile and talk to him in English. We all smile so I guess it's a good conversation. On the left , the man in the white shirt must be the manager. He speaks a little English and he too is very friendly and always glad to see us. When we first started going there we were generallly seated in the back room, now when we come we get to sit up in this area in the front of the restaurant.
This night we enjoyed two of their specials - gnocchi with fava beans and tons of butter I think. Delicious
Sharon had mac n'cheese with asparagus and pancetta.
Two people from San Francisco a woman and her niece, were seated next to us and we had a great time talking to them.
GASTRONOMY TOUR
Have wanted to do this since we arrived in Bologna but they only do it on Fridays at 1630 and Staurday mornings at 1030. Since it did include a glass of wine I just thought the Friday night would be more fun. When we finally were going to be in town on a Friday night - it was a holiday. No tour. Finally we were in town and the tour was available and so we signed up.
We met our tour gude, Gloria and her asistant, Alyssia, at the Welcome Center. We were joined by a girl from New Zealand who works in Australia and 4 girls from Hamburg, Germany who were in Bologna for four days to celebrate one of the girl's birthdays.
We started in the square where Gloria explained to us about the ancient markets in the city of Bologna. At one time there were three - one in the square we were standing in, one in the square by the twin towers, and one between the two.
Bologna claims to be Italy's culinary capital. The list of foods originating in Bologna and the surrounding area are - lasagna, tortellini, "spaghetti bolognese," parma ham,balsamic vinegar, parmesan cheese and of course "bologna" itself or rather the delicately flavored mortadello. The food in this area is less about tomatoes and olive oli and more about butter and cream.
Our first stop was in this chocolate shop which Sharon and I had passed many times. I've never heard that Bologna was known for their chocolate. Well... they are. This particular chocolate shop was founded by the Mijani family in 1796. Chocolate was brought by the Spanish explorers to Europe in about 1520. Up until the late eighteenth century chocolate only existed in liquid form and was drunk exclusively by the aristocracy and the clergy and only subsequently did the sybaritic delight start to spread to other sectors of society, beginning with the wealthy merchant class. These were just the years when news spread about a small confectionery-maker with the adjacent Teresa Majani shop, named the "laboratorio elle Crose Dolci" ( literlly workshop of sweet things"). Here was the first place that chocolate was made into a solid form.
We were given samples of four different chocolates - 1. Scorza Majani, ( solid dark chocolate whose name comes from the wrinkled and irregular design chocolate so similar to tree bark, 2. Il Tortellino di Chocolate - it is a sweet version of the famous Bolognese hand-made pasta. It is made in three different varieties, milk, dark and white chocolate with a soft cream, 3. a chocolate covered orange peel and 4. The FIAT Majani.
In 1911 Majani was commissioned by FIAT, the renowned motorcar manufacturer, to design and develope a customized sweetmeat for launching of the "Tipo Quattro" car model. The result was a little cube of four alternating chocolate layers, hazelnut, and almonds flavored. The FIAT was my absolute favorite but all were delicious!!!!!!!!! I don't think we will be passing this store anymore without going in. Definitely have to buy some. Hope there's room in my suitcase for at least a little box of these.
Strolling down Via Drapperis, Bologna's main market street, this store is almost hidden amid the fray of market stalls and vendors. Antica Aquzzeria del Cavallo has what every tourist is looking for as they stroll past the wedges of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Salumerias densely hung with sausages - in short delicacies to make a hungry tourist pine for a sharp knife.
Walk beyond this unlikely window display - a mismash of camouflage gear, mace, switchblades an axes sharing the stage with kitchen cleavers, mezzalunas and a truffle slicer - and you'll find one of the most comprehensive cutlery shops imaginable. If it cuts, rips, tears, nicks, grates, slices, shreds or pricks and is legal to sell, they most likely have it.
When Antonio Bernagozzi opened it in 1783, the shop was primarilly a resource for hunters, which explains both the antique leather-sheathed daggers adorning the front wall, and those camouflage jackets. Seven generations later, the family has lost the horse-powered whetstone and the courtyard it once resided in, but has broadened its collection of kitchen tools.
Recommended as one of the best places to buy your "Bolognesse" meats and cheeses.
Our next stop was in front of this obscure doorway. Oher than that little "VINO" sign above the door one would have no idea what this place was nor would one be likely to step in. Big mistake.
"OLD WAY
Just in the area of the old market, you can make a real jump into the past in this hidden and unmarked osteria.. Osteria del Sole takes you back to the days of Bologna's warm and cozy traveler's inns: here you'll specially meet very nice and probably very drunk old people wearing old fashioned jackets and their typical cloth caps, but not only. Many students come here to celebrate graduation, birthdays, or just have a good apertif in the main room or the small courtyard. You are allowed to bring your own food here but do have a glass of Chianti to go with it, it's only 2 euro."
Another little shop open since 1932 where you can purchase assorted cured meats and pastas, olive oils and balsamic vinegars. There is also a restaurant and a little front bar where you can enjoy the Bolognese cuisine.
Some of the best Tortellini is produced here in Paola Atti & Figli, founded in 1880 and has been at this same location, via Caprarie, 7 since 1900. There's another shop around the corner at via Drapperie,6.
Atti's Via Drapperie store is dedicated to pasta whereas the Via Caprarie store specializes in baked good but also sells pasta. Both shops have the wood paneled warmth and tantalizing displays that hail from another century. Even the doily-trimmed boxes for pasta and cookies feature the type, logos and phone number (302) of the original store, founded by the "grandfather of the grandfather" of the present-day proprietor.
Our next stop was at the Chamber of Commerce building to pick up a free cookbook. The forward of the book reads: "in these pages we would like to recall recipes, fragrances, an atmospheres that survived among the culinary trends and we would like to be the jealous repositories of this tradition, passing on these precious values of our history. "
One page talks about
"The Bolognese Tagliatella should be 8 mm wide, after cooking and when served on the table. Solemnly declared by the Bologna Delegation of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina and deposited with notorial deed on the 16th of April 1972 at the Chambe of Commerce of Bologna, in the Palazzo della Mercanzia.
This size is /12,270 of the height of
of the Asinelli Tower of Bologna!
The size of the Tagliatella has been reproduc in a golden sample, held in a casket, with the following writing:'the sample is jealously held in the Palazzo della Mercanzia in Bologna, as a testimony and as protection of the glorious traditions of the Bologna cuisine. '"
We went into this beautiful building which is opened twice a year to the public otherwise is generally off limits to visitors. We were able to go in and look at the entryway and visit one of the rooms onthe ground level.
Sharon was reading the recipes and can hardly wait to get back to the US to make a few of them. For those friends in the Lake Norman area I'm sure you'll be getting your invitations just as soon as she finds her own place. She already knows how to make the pasta. I volunteered to serve the wine.
Gloria mentioned that the people of Bologna are very partiular about their pasta. If they go into a retaurant and the pasta is overcooked at all they will send the plate back.
Gloria signing for our cookbooks.
The book. Some great recipes, some only take 3 or 4 days to make. I think those are the ones Sharon is anxious to try.
Gloria is pinting out the pictures at the top of the wall which represent the various guilds found in Bologna.
This store is one of two owned by the Zilelli family. One store has household linens and this one has sells dressmaking fabrics. Since 1937, this store has wooden benches and massive shelves where colorful fabrics are displayed.
Gilberto's is a family company specalizing since 1905 in fine wines and liquors, sauces, balsamic vinegar, chocolate and sweets.
This is a fairly new addition to the gastronomy scene in Bologna. It opened a few years ago and offers a number of little stalls where you can buy almost anything - meats, cheeses, pastas,desserts , wine and beer. Pick out what you want for lunch or dinner and than sit at one of the tables in the Mercato.
Our last stop was at this wonderful little place - La Gaita Formaggi. Opened in the 50's it's not old but they've created a wonderful ambiance.
The outside area was packed and I had no idea where they were going to seat us. We soon discovered there was a lovely upstairs area which we would never had known about had we not gone on this tour.
Their primatly objective when they opened was to offer only the finest products. We each got a small plate with salami, prosciutto , mortadella, parmesan and a small round of hot flat bread accompanied by a glass of one of three wines - sangiovese, sparkling pignoletto , or lambrusco.
The big bowl is a vat used in the making of Parmigiano - Reggiano.
The group!
Here Sharon and I are toasting my brother Doug who turned 72 today.
We stayed and had another glass of wine with Linda, the young lady living in Australia. We found out she works for a mining company and drives 250 ton dump trucks. She's back packing around Europe for 2 months, much of the time on her own but also meeting up with various friends at times.
We invited to her to join us in finding a place for dinner. We thought we might try one of the restaurants Gloria had recommnded so we back tracked and found the little street where this restaurant was located.
Trattoria da Gianni, tucked away down a little alley and still people found it and we weren't able to get a table. Of course when I looked it up I found it to be one of the best and most recommended restaurants in Bologna, particularly by the locals. ( also read to use the app Yubuk which lets you request reservations on line for almost any restaurant. This eliminates the fear of trying to communicate over the phone if you don't speak Italian.)
We did find a place - it was busy but had outside eating and the head waiter put us in the bar and said he's have a table in 10 minutes. Pretty soon we had a glass of prosecco in our hands, compliments of the owner. We soon had our table and enjoyed some wonderful food and company.
We walked back and I snapped a few pictures of some of the places at night.
Not too far down from the apartment is a pizzeria that is always busy. Learned that night time is no exception. There's a few tables outside and when those get full people just sit on the curb and munch away.
it was a great tour and a great evening. We have a few things to try now with our new found knowledge.
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