There are any number of fountains in Rome. They run the gamut from Renaissance masterpieces that gracefully decorate the city's central squares to the smaller iron fountains that dot the city offering fresh taste of drinkable water. The Popes built most of the Fountains in the 16th and 17th centuries to provide people with water to drink and wash while embellishing the city street and piazzaz. Most fountains today have fresh water which can be used to drink. Just fill up your plastic bottle. No reason to spend a euro for bottled water.
The first fountain was the Fontana del Tritone right in the middle of the bustling Piazza Barberini. It shows Triton, a sea god kneeling at the base of four Dolphins.
Our next stop was Fontana di Trevi the famous fountain (Trevi) immortalized by Frederico Fellini's movie "La Dolce vita" in which Anita Ekberg frolicked sensually in the water. Thousands of people snap pictures and throw coins in the water. As legend has it, tossing a coin into the fountain as you turn away from it will ensure your return to Rome. I always think of the movie and song "Three Coins in the Fountain" when I see this fountain.
Well here it is. So disappointing as it is undergoing some much needed renovation. We were not even allowed to throw a coin in the fountain.. I threw a coin in the fouontain the 2 previus times I was in Rome and now I'm wondering if I will return . Over 10000 coins a day are thrown into the fountain and the money goes to the church and is believed to be used for charity.
We left the Trevi disappointed but ready to move on. On our way we spotted this imposing statue of one of the Popes.
We became distracted when we saw this building and wondered what it was.
As we were standing there a young man came up to us and asked if we'd like to have a 30 minute tour of the Pantheon for10 Euro. Why not? We had a very interesting and fun tour guide named Job, originally from the US. The Pantheon is the Roman monument with the greatest number of records, the best preserved brick dome in the history of architecture and is considered a forerunner of all modern places of worship. Michelangelo felt is was the work of angels, not of men.
Where it stands was not chosen by chance, but is a legendary place in the city's history. According to legend, it is the place where the founder of Rome, Romulus, at his death was seized by an eagle and taken off into the skies with the Gods.
The name comes from two Greek words, pan, "everything" and from "divine'. Originally the Pantheon was a small temple dedicated to all roman gods, It was built between 27 and 25 BC by the consul Agrippa, Perfect of the Emperor Augustus. The present building is the result of subsequent restructuring. After a couple of fires it was rebuilt in its present shape by the Emperor Hadrian; under whose reign Rome reached its maximum splendor, and the present structure is probably the fruit of his eclectic and exotic tastes.
It is now a Christian church - added some crosses and it became the Basilica Santa Maria of the Angles and Martys in 609.
The tour was an "on and off" one so halfway through this young girl and her father joined us. She was darling but our 30 minute tour lasted almost an hour because of her interruptions and such. She was cute though and we all enjoyed her questions and interruptions. She was learning to speak Swaihili Italian and English.
This is our tour guide Job, telling us a great story about the Bernini elephant located on the side of the Patheon and infront of a church. This was the area where Galileo was held prisoner and believed to be tortured by the Dominican Monks for his belief that the Sun is the center of the world, and that it does not move from east to west, and that the earth does move, and is not the center of the world. This was heresy.
Job told the story which I cannot verify but does make for a great story so I shall repeat it. Bernini is the sculptor of the elephant and he was commisioned by the church to do the sculpture. If you notice the proportion is terrible. Bernini was known for his beautiful proportion so why? The "story" goes that Bernini was an admirer of Galileo and disagreed with his imprisonment and torture. The elephant's porportion looks more like that of a pig. Was he making a statement?
The placement of the elephant has his backside facing the building where the monks resided. Notice the tail is even set to the side. The trunk of the elephant looks very much like a gesture that is somewhat common today. If true, Bernini in a very subtile way made his point.
Th most fascinating features of the Panteon is the Architecture. The structure of the Pantheon is a series of intersecting arches. The arches rest on eight piers which support eight round-headed arches which run through the drum from inner to its outer face. The arches correspond to eight bays on the floor level that house statues. The dome itself is supported by a series of arches that run horizontally around. Romans had perfected the use of arches which helped sustain the weight of their magnificent buildings. The Romans used lighter material towards the top of their dome. The use of lighter material on top alleviatd the immense weight of the dome.
The detail of this building is extraordinary. If the dome of the rotundra were flipped upside down it would fit perfectly inside the rotunda.
The marble veneer we see on the interior was probably added later. However, in its present state it allows us a glimpse into the marvelous and stunning world of the Roman architecture. The dome would have been guilded to look like the heavenly sphere of all the gods that the name Pantheon evokes. The oculus was an engineering gem of the Roman world. No oculus had dared come close in size to the one in the Pantheon. It is still lined with the original Roman bronze and is the main source of light for the whole building. The oculus was never covered and rain falls into the interior and runs off the slightly convex floor to the still functioning Roman drainpipes underneath.
Job instructed us how to take this picture of the occulus, I can't believe I'm posting a picture of myself looking down into the camera. No woman over 50 in their right mind would do that. Had I been in my right mind I would have gotten Michele's picture of the occulus.
The Italian kings Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I as well as the famous Renaissance painter Raphael and his fiance are buried here.
The wife of Umberto I is also buried here - Princess Margherita of Savoy. Acording to legend the Margherita pizza, whose red tomatoes, green basil, and white cheese represent the Italian flag, was named after her
Raphael's tomb. He died at the age of 37. His funeral mass was celebrated at the Vatican. He is said to have died of syphilis. He was a very handsome chaming man and became known as "the prince of painters". He probably had a few other names as well.
There is also an altar for Joseph in the Pantheon. As Job pointed out ,"a man who indeed deserves to be admired and perhaps exalted for his role in Christianity".
Our tour was finished so we quickly hurried to get some lunch before heading off to our Segway tour.
Of course one again we were distracted. We had to go through Navona square and of course had to stop at the Fountain of the Four Rivers. This is Bernini's most famous fountain built between 1648 and 1651. The four statues represent four rivers, symbols of four parts of the world: the Danube for Europe, the Nile for Africa, the Rio dela Plata for the Americas and the Ganges for Asia
We walked through Navona Square and into the little square close to our designated meeting place for the segway tour. Again, another distraction. Such cute hats. We had to succumb - right?
Finally, a place to grab a quick bite.
I had chosen a tour away from the city center. I couldn't imagine Michele doing well with a lot of traffic and people. Even though it's November and the crowds are smaller. Always thinking of her safety- good mother that I am. I on the other hand would have had no problem because I am an experienced Segway driver. So we were off to Trastevere and the Gianicolo. This is an area where the Roman's live. It's across the Tiber. There is a foot bridge the Ponte Sisto that one can cross to get there but we used the "motor" bridge on our Segways and thus were able to take this picture of the pedestrian bridge.
Part of the original Aurelian Walll. We "motored" up the Gianicolo hill and had beautiful views of the city . You could see St. Peters, and the typewriter, of course.
The Gianicolo or Janiculum Hill is often considered the "Eighth Hill of Rome, referring to the seven hills around which ancient Rome was built. This hill was the second oldest hill in Ancient Rome. It was believed to be the center for the cult of the God Janus, hence its name. Because of its stunning location overlooking the city, it is thought that the cult's priests would stand atop the hill and look for auspices- signs from the gods.
This was once the residence of Cardinal Corsinis and is now part of a 30 acre botanical garden that was created in the 19th cenury.
The Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, a Baroque fountain built in 1612 for Pope Paul V. It was built to celebrate the reopening of an old Roman adqueduct, originally created in 109 AD by Emperor Trajan. The fountain was constructed with marble taken from the Roman Forum and resulted in the destruction of the Temple of Minerva, which until then was still pretty much intact.
Our next stop was at Comunita i sant'Egidio -- Santa Maria in Trastevere. The church was originally founded as early as the 3rd century by Pope Callixtus but it was probably built around 350 AD under Pope Julius I. Restoration after fires, etc was undertaken by Pope Hadrian, then Pope Gregory IV added a crypt to hold the bodies of the popes Calixtux, Julius I and Cornelius that had been exhumed from the catacombs. The church was totally rebuilt in the 12th century by Pope Innocent II using materials from the ancient Baths of Caracalla. Recycle, recycle, recycle!!!!!
According to one of the myths surrounding the church on the day Christ was born a stream of pure oil flowed from the earth on the site of the church, signifying the coming of the grace of God. Filling the apse are some of Rome's most beautiful mosaics.
The " Cosmatesque-like opus sectile floor. A fancy way of saying "bits of colored stone pieced together in pleasing patterns. There are 21 columns which were pilfered from nearby ancient buildings. None of them are the same. Who cares - they were free!
Next we went to the Church of Santa Cecilia. It is one of the most interesting churches. The statue by the altar of the church is based on the body of the patron saint of music, martyred St. Cecilia, which was found undecayed in her coffin in the 16th century. It is said when she was killed they severed her head from the back and she continued to sing.
The night was getting chilly and dark and about this time Michele and I were ready to head back but we had a few more stops to make.
The Tiber. Across the way are two hospitals that are located on the island. It is a natural quarantine area. The River was pretty low while we were there. Fortunately for us the "rainy season" took a break during our stay.
You are probably thinking we are back in Rome proper but this is an amphitheater which is now used as an apartment building. We are looking at the back and the entrance is in the front and there is a garden area which the residents enjoy.
We went by a copy of the turtle fountain but by this time all Michele and I wanted to do was get back to the shop and get off the Segways. We were cold and tired. I would definitely recommend going and spending a day in Trastevere. It is charming. As we segwayed our way home people were milling in the street, having coffee or a drink. Laundry was hanging from the windows. The area just has a very local identity and a break from the city. Although the weather is unpredictable in November it's a great time to visit because the majority of tourists are home. Things are also cheaper. We stayed in a lovely hotel and the 4th night was free, and breakfast was included. These are deals you don't get during "the season". It's easy to book restaurants and the locals have time for you.
We were a little cold and a little hungry so we decided to stop at a little place not far from our hotel and have a little snack before heading out to dinner.
The manager came by and struck up a conversation with us. He was leaving to open a restaurant in New York. We had ordered a little brushetta with four different toppings which of course was topped with white truffle, While waiting for that the owner came by and talked to us and when our food came he asked the waiter to pour us another glass of wine. Oh it is nice to have someone young sitting at the table.
The manager who was doing some calling for us. I guess I should fess up and say that we had bought tickets to Venice for the wrong day. We just happened to mention this to our "friend" who said he could handle that for us. Well.... we had to do what we expected and that was to go back to the train station and exchange our tickets. I should explain that in our defense, when we made our initial trip to the train station some man came up to us and asked us what we wanted. We explained and he told us to get a number, than told us to go to the machines, than asked someone to use the machine with our card. People were hollering NO, NO! So we left the girl who became rather snooty and the man persisted in taking us away from there where there was a crowd of people and leading us to another area where there was absolutely no one. He assured us he did not want any money only to help us. While we were buying the tickets he was talking and we just weren't able to methodically handle the purchase. Anyway, it all worked out and we had our tickets for Venice.
I have to add the Bruschetta we had was not very good but because the owner and the manager had been so nice to us we ate it. Our concierge had made dinner reservations so we went at 8:30 but because we had "spoiled our appetite" neither of us eally felt like eating much. It was an elegant restaurant and Michele and I decided that for our last night in Rome we wanted a more casual, smaller, and less "fancy" restaurant.
We had an early morning tour of the Vatican and Sistine Chapel planned so we just stopped in the little hotel bar and had a night cap and turned in early - 11:00.
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