EZE

We had arranged for an all day tour of the Rivieria with Viator and were picked up at 9:00 at our hotel.  Sharon and  I were the only ones on the tour.  The advantage of traveling in the off season.  Caroline was our tour guide.  We were off and running.  Our first stop was Eze.  I had been there over 25 years ago and the only thing  I saw there was the hotel and the most marvelous view.   We enjoyed a 5 hour brunch and I can still remember eating white tail deer for my main course.  The waiter had recommended it and  it was so good!  The brunch would have lasted for more then five hours but our friends had to catch a flight back to England.  It was one of those once in a lifetime experiences that you never forget.  What a privilege it was to be able to return.

The weather was kind of dreary as we started out but we did go to a lookout to get a little panoramic view of the surrounding area. 

Since the rain was supposed to stop a little later Caroline took us to the perfume factory in Eze first.

This perfume factory, the oldest in Grasse has housed perfume making since 1782.  In 1926 it took the name of Parfumerie Fragonard as a tribute the painter Jean-Honorr Frafonar.  Perfumes, cosmetics and soaps are produced here.

Here we are with Caroline , our tour guide.  

This lovely woman with Sharon was our guide through the factory.

We started out our tour by sniffing various scents to see if we had the "nose".  There is no way they are going to be hiring me, Sharon might have a chance.  However, to be a "nose" one must study for 10 years - 3 in the classroom, and 7 years of practice.  The "nose" works no more then 3 hours a day and cannot drink or have any spicey food.  ( I am definitely not a candidate).  It takes over one year to develope a new fragrance.

The jars with numbers on them - one would sniff and guess.  I probably got one out of four.

This shows the countys that provide the various plants that are then use to make the essenses.  They use cedar and orange from the United States. 

Their signature soaps are in the shape of a duck and an egg.

Of course no tour is complete unless you have the opportunity to buy something - and we were there with our charge cards in hand.

The weather had improved somewhat - although definitely not going to be a picturesque day in the Reviera.

Caroline dropped us off after explaining a few of the things to see in Eze and then we were off to explore on our own.

There were winding streets and although we started out together we ended up on different paths and they did not meet.  Our last time together was in the church.  We had taken different paths there but ended up together. After that...

The church was built from 1764-1772 and has a very plain - neo-classic facade but a very impressive interior.

We went out the door of the church and I was attracted to one path and Sharon another.  We thought for sure they would join somewhere up the hill.

I'm attracted to graveyards (daughter of a funeral director, what can I say).

The whole midieval village is entirely pedestrian.  There are numerous streets and alley and beautiful coutyards or picturesque house around every corner.  Many of the houses are now shops, galleries and restaurants.  Eze has few local residents - long ago having been abandoned to tourism.  

 Just to let you know, they did not put out the red carpet for me - it's there all the time.  

 The White Penitents' chapel.

It was built when the plague was rife in Europe and was the seat of the White Penitent brotherhood.  They were laymen who dressed in white robes who cared for the sick and the poor.  The chapel was converted several times  and renovated in 1953.

It is the oldest building in Eze dating back to 1306.

I kept climbing - keeping my eye out for Sharon.  Oh where oh where could she be?  I finally came to an entrance to a garden area where I had to pay 4 euro's to gain admittance.  I knew Sharon was in there so I parted with my hard earned cash.  I hollered in my wee little voice - not my Sunday School get attention voice.  

This turned out to be the Botanical Garden in Eze.  It is built on the old site of a 12th century fortress.  It started in 1949 when the Mayor decided to create a garden there.  He hired Jean Gastaud who was one of the founding fathers of the exotic gardens in Monaco.  This garden is at the very top of Eze and so rocks and bolders had to be carried up the mountain.  Terraces were set up, beds traced, and rock-work arrangments made.  Countless plants, agaves, aloes, and cacti were carried up and planted, some no more then seedlings, others fully grown.  Amongst the latter, a Crown of Thorns, 130 years old and weighing nearly half a ton.

Because of the colder weather a lot of the plants were covered.  

Spectacular views from the terraces.  In 2004 a secluded deck area comprising a pretty water feature and reclining wooden deck chairs was added.  

Not out when I was there and after that climb I could have used a rest.   There are 14 sculptures made out of clay representing  goddesses of life and fertility.  Each has a name and small poem dedicated to it that is written in both French and English.  

Some rather spectacular views! I understand that "On a Clear Day , You  Can See Forever"  .  

At one time Mulberry trees were grown in and around Eze for the cultivation of silk worms, once an important trade.  Silk production was given up in the 19th century but one last mulberry tree still stands and can be found just at the entrance of the garden.  It is said to be at least 300 years old , if not more and it continues to produce its beautiul leaves ad white fruit still today.  ( I missed getting a picture of it but now you know about it so when you visit you can look for it).

It was getting near the departure time and I had to find my way down the mountain on my own - no Sharon to guide me.  I eventually made my way to the hotel - a landmark and stopped to take this picture.

Located in someone's private residence.

At last I spotted Sharon almost at the bottom of the hill and we went down the rest of the way and got into the car with Caroline and headed to Monaco!

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