Sunday, March 22, 2015

A LITTLE BARCELONA AND GIRONA

The week didn't start out very well.  I had a terrible toothache so finally went back to the dentist on Tuesday and learned that I had a gum infection.  She x-rayed the tooth and the tooth was good so I just got some penicillin and although it was slow to respond I am now feeling much beter.   Go back on Tuesday to have it rechecked.  That whole ordeal cost me 4.25 euro's for the medicine.  The exam and x-ray were free.  

My next trial was getting my driver's license extended for a few months.  It expires on the 9th of April.  I received an email of five pages which had to be completed before they will consider extending my license.  One of the required forms was an eye exam.  I was googling clinics over here that spoke English and calling and was getting nowhere.  Finally I figured out my phone may have run out of time because I kept getting the same message in Spanish ( at least I thought it was the same message).  I think it was from vodafone and not from any of the clinics.  Not speakiing the language can make things difficult at times.  Anyway, on the way to the gym yesterday we found an optical shop and the man running the shop pointed us to an optician shop up the street that does eye exams.  After working out I found the shop and I managed to communicate my need.  They checked my eyes right then and she apologized that it was going to cost 10 euro's.  After the exam I started to pay and she said oh no, when you come back with the form you can pay.  Off I went, got the form, and came back and they completed it for me and collected their 10 euro's.  Now I just have to hope NC will accept the exam. 

I filled out the rest of the paper work, wrote my $20.00 check ( first check I've writtten in almost a year)
and went to get an envelope so I could keep everything together when I took it to mailbox, etc. down in the El Born.  I went into a little shop next to the apartment and the bell over the door rang a number of times and I saw the proprietor  was in the back sitting on a chair, sleeping.  I made a bit of noise, then I opened the door again so the bell would ring, then I made some more noise and finally he jerked awake.  He didn't speak any English so I didn't get an envelope but ended up with a folder that would keep everything secure.  

Sharon and I took the package to be mailed.  This whole license fiasco has cost me : $10.00 for a new license with my new address on it, $20 for the extension, 30 euro's to mail the package, 10 euro's for the eye exam.  Now I just have to hope that I get the extension.  I need to rent a car when I get home and I don't think that will happen unless I have a valid license.  I'm hoping they will mail the license to my stateside address and not to Europe.  I told them I'm not driving over here and wanted the license to be sent to Cornelius and not Europe.  Will see how that works out.  

Well a beautiful week weather wise had kind of passed us by because of my lethargy due to the toothache but we did manage to go out for dinner a few nights and we found a New Mexican restaurant in the El Born which we enjoyed after maiing my package off.  We had to celebrate - work completed- with a margarita.








We then came home and decided we'd book a tour that I had seen on viator to the towns of  Girona and the Dali Museum in Figueres.  The next available tour was on Saturday so we got that done.

We awoke early on Saturday morning to a dark, wet day.  Of course we had seen the weather forcast but why did the weatherman have to be right on that day.  Anyway we got ready and got to our meeting point at 8:00 for an 8:30 departure.  Our first stop was in Girona.  

We were standing under a bus shelter waiting for the tour bus to arrive and it was pouring down rain.  The bus pulled up and we all headed to the door and OOPS, the line halted.  Our tour guide was giving us tickets and she didn't have her machine set up so while she was doing that the rest of us were getting soaked.  The tickets were not good for anything.  She could have gotten us all on the bus then proceeded to go down the aisle and print out the ticket on her little machine.  
Here she is greeting us from the nice watm dry bus.  I'm usually pretty patient but my patience was wearing thin let me tell you.  


We got  to Girona and waited at the information office for our English speaking tour guide to take us on a walking tour of Girona Old town and Jewish Quarter.  We were so hoping the rain would let up for the next hour and a half but no such luck.


She finally arrived and we took off on our damp excurision. She was a great tour guide but we missed out on a lot of the information ducking into areas where we could get out of the rain.  


At the confluence of four rivers, Girona keeps intact the magic of its historic past - with its brooding hilltop castle, soaring cathedral, and dreamy riverside setting, it resembles a vision from the Middle Ages.  This tour centered on the east side of the River Onya in the area known as the Old Quarter, Forca Vella ( Old Fortress).  Built on the side of a mountain, it presents a tightly packed labyrinth of medieval buildings and monuments on narrow cobblestone streets with connecting stairways.  You can still see remains of the Iberian and Roman walls in the cathedral square and in the patio of the old university.  In the centermost quarter is El Call, one of the best-preserved ancient (12-13th century) Jewish communities.

Beautiful pastel yellow, pink and orange waterfront facades line the West Bank of the River Onyar.  



The cathedral, which we didn't get into.  Not only is it 80 steps to the entrance it was slippery so we decided to forgo the visit. Inside are many treasurers one of which is the Tapis de la Creacion considered by most experts to be the finest tapestry surviving from the Romanesque era.  It depicts the seen days of Creation as told in Genesis in the primative but powerful fashion of Romanesque art.  In addition to its intrinsic beauty, the bottom band (which appears to have been added at a later date) contains two Jews, dressed in theround  cloaks they were compelled to wear to set them apart from Christians.  This scene is thought to be the earliest portrayal of a Jew ( other than biblical figures) in Christian art.  I'm so very sorry we didn't get into the church.  


A picture from the internet of the tapestry.  







In Placa de Sant Felix you see this lioness which at one time was located on Calders Street advertising the Lioness Hostal.  Anyone going by could touch its bottom without difficulty.   This action became a habit so that eventually those who visited the city were advised that touching its bottom was a warranty for not leaving the city or coming back in the future.  Over time the custom was changed when, instead of touching the ass, someone began to kiss it.  People decided to do it too and after a short time everyone who passed by the lioness approached and kissed her.  

The custom is still alive although the hostal has disapeared and the column got moved to its current location.  The only difference is now it is necessary to climb stairs to accomplish the ritual. 


The Main Street of the quarter , Carrer de la Forca, follows the old Via Augusta, the Roman road that connected Rome with its provinces.  


Somewhere in this area our guide told about the Arab baths which are in Girona.  The baths were actually built by Morisco craftsman in the late 12th century, long after Girona's Islamic occupation (714-797) had ended.  Following the old Roman model that had disappeared in the West, the custom of bathing publically may have been brought back from the Holy Land with the Crusaders.  We didn't get to the baths unfortunately.  From what I saw on the internet they are well preserved and would have been lovely to see.  









Capella de Saint Nicolau.  An old Roman church where weddings, babtisms,and such were held.  There are no windows except for the Rose window which you see in the picture above.  Today it's used for various exhibits.  


The movie Perfume was filmed here and and a book called Memory House  was written about the city.  She mentioned some others but with the weather  and such we really couldn't hear everything that she was saying.  



We met this wonderful lady - Hansa and her husband who informed us that on the tour they took to Monserrat the day before they had failed to get back to the bus in time and had to catch the train back.  We kept our eye on them and kept telling them what time it was on our watch just to make sure they didn't get left behind today. 





The best representation of Jewish life in Catalonia is in Girona.  Although no Jews live in Girona today , it is the site of the Nahmanides Foundation and houses a small Jewish museum. Sephardic Jews around the world owe a debt for the preservation of their history to Joaquim Nadal Farreras, mayor of Gerona and historian.



In 1478 the Catholic Monarchs created the "Tribunal del Santo Oficio de la Inquisición" (Inquisition) to persecute heresy and impose the Christian faith. The entire population of Jews who had converted to Christianity was suspected by the Inquisition of practicing Judaism in secret. They were therefore regularly repressed and persecuted. 


On the wall in front of the front door is the notch used by the Jewish people to affix a Mezuzah.  These were covered during the time of Jewish prosecution.  



When money is available much archiological works goes on in Girona.  Two roads which were previously walled up are now open and a third remains walled right now but will be restored at a later time.  







This  Bronze sculpture by Josep Maria Subirachs 1986 at the foot of the Escales de la Pera
 near the Call or Jewish quarter pays homage to the builders of Girona cathedral.  Construction work
 began in the early 14th century with an original plan for three naves. After a discussion which lasted
 over half a century it was completed using a single nave a bold decision which produced the broadest 
nave of the Gothic age 73 feet  and the second widest of any style in the world after St Peter's in the 
Vatican The ancient walled city of Girona has a long and colorful past standing at the narrowest point
 of the historical route across the Pyrenees it has been called both the last bridge to Africa and Europes
 first boulevard and has been fought over in almost every century since it was the Roman fortress of 
Gerunda on the Via Augusta, Following the Moorish invasion of Spain it was an Arab town for over 200 
years and there was also a continuous Jewish presence here for 600 years.














    The streets in Girona are named after the medieval activity practiced in them and the markets offered in them; lArgenteria (silver), Mercaders (salesmen), Place de Vi ( the wine square), l'Oli ( oil, and de les Castanyes ( of the chestnuts) etc.  


    Finally some cover.


    Our guide pointed out that there are 13 Michelin guide starred restaurants in Girona.    


    This was discovered on the ceiling between some of these arches during some restoration work - I believe the guide said it was the Isle de Paris.  






    By this time we were cold, wet and hungry.  We had been advised by our tour guide to taste a pastry called xuixo ( shoe shoes) while in Girona so we went in search of them and were told this llittle bakery were the originators of the pastry.  They also had great looking sandwiches so we decided to stay and have lunch, coffee and dessert.  Also hoping to dry out a bit. 




    Xuixo  (shoe shoes)


    We had met Pat Schneider who was traveling alone so she joined us.  She had been in London on business and decided to take a few days and visit Barcelona.  Was fun to have someone join us and she was very nice and very interesting.  She's been to 70 countries.  Sharon and I were counting ours the other day and we both got to somewhere around 25.  










    I saw these in a furniture store and since I'll be looking for some new chairs I thought perhaps these would add a little comfort as well as conversation material.  Sure hope I can find these in the states.  


    I'm disappointed that we didn't get to Girona on a beauitful day.  I think we could have spent quite a bit of time there and really learned a lot and seen a lot.  Definitely a go to city if you are in Barcelona for any time.  It's about an hour and half train ride from Barcelona.  









































































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