Monday, May 11, 2015

LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND




If the last blog you read was on the Bernina Express I have published two blogs since then - Day Trips from Bologna and Odds and Ends.  I had started them before the Bernina Express but published them after as they were just an assortment of "stuff".  To get to them you have to go to the blog and scroll to the bottom - at that point you will see "older posts".  Hit on it and it will take you back to the Milan blog.  Scroll down again and you should come to the  Day Trips blog.  At the end of that, again go to older blogs and Odd and Ends will come up.

I am starting this blog over.  I uploaded all the pictures from Lucerne onto the Blog before leaving the area.  I didn't write anything as I thought I'd just do that at home.  Last evening I was nearing the end of my task and when I hit done the whole blog disappeared.   Needless to say  I was sick.  I have no idea how that happens sometimes. Anyway, I had decided I just wouldn't blog about Lucerne.  For one thing most of my pictures have been deleted since I needed to make room for the pictures in Zermatt.  That is what really makes me sick because I had some very nice pictures.  Sharon said she hadn't deleted all of her's so between those I have left  on my Iphone and Ipad and those Sharon has leftI will  complete   a blog "of sorts".  The deleted blog was absolutely perfect, - no spelling errors. no grammatical errors, always in the right tense, full of interesting facts, pertinent information and wonderul stories.  My best blog ever. Oh, I almost forgot.  That blog was so funny I was caught laughing uproariously while reading it.  Oh well.  

I should add that my case for the iPad which has the keyboard attached broke also and the ipad will no longer stay in the case so I have to type with it propped up which certainly isn't ideal.  

I have a split toenail, a blister on the bottom of my foot, and I twisted my ankle last evening.  I think it's time to go home - ha!


We left from Bologna fairly early and took a train to Milan.  We had to change trains two different times so we had packed pretty light.  We had close connections and we didn't want heavy suitcases slowing us down.  

The scenery as we left Milan and traveled from Italy to Switzerland was absolutely beautiful.  Waterfalls, hills, green fields, lovely villages, lakes and mountains.  








Our next train change was in Arth-Goldau where we had time to get a ilttle something to eat.  I had done a little reading on some of the Swiss foods to try and saw Birchermuesli. Sharon and I each grabed one and sat down to taste it.  It's actually something one would eat at breakfast but since it was early we thought we'd give it a try.   It's  museli mixed with yogurt and in this case it has fruit and smal nuts incorporated into it.  Good - but not great.  Definitely a breakfast food!





We arrived in Lucerne ( Luzern) and were planning on grabbing a cab when the driver pinted across the lake and at a particular roof and said "that's it".  Less than a five minute walk if you don't stop to enjoy the view.  

Luzern has long been Switzerland's tourism capital.  Situated on the edge of a lake, with a striking alpine panorama as a backdrop.  Luzern was a regular stop on the "Grand Tour" route of Europe duriing the Romantic era entertaining visitors such as Mark Twaine, Goethe, and Queen Victoria as well.  

Luzern is a midsize city of about 600,000 residents.  The town grew up around a monastery and is said to have been founded here because an angel shone a heavenly spotlight on the site.  ( the name 'Luzern" is derived from lucerna, Latin for "lamp:.  

Luzern sits where the Reuss Rier flows out of Lake Luzern.  South of the river is the train station and the bustling new town and north of the river is the quint, traffic-free town.  The river is spanned by a series of pedestrian bridges including two classic wooden ones: the Chapel Bridge, with its famous stone water tower, and the Mill Bridge.  Museums, restaurants, and hotels are scattered on both sides of the river.




Residents say the swans originated as a gift from French King Louis XIV, in appreciation for the protection he got from the Swiss Guards.  


Our hotel is right in front of the parked boat but we had to weave our way around to find the front entrance.  


We went through this little square and 



at last,  the front entrance.  


The view from the river front of the hotel incuded this beautiful Chapel Bridge.  Luzern started as a fishing village.  By the 13th century, with traffic between nothern and Southern Europe streaming through the nearby Gotthard Pass, Luzern became a bustlling trading center.  In the first half of the century, this bridge was built at an angle, to connect the town's medieval fortifications.  The bridge was part of the city defense system, so the "window openings facing the lake are smaller than those on the island side, giving defenders more cover.  The octagonal stone Water Tower was built around. 1300.










In the 17th century,the bridge was decorated with paintings depicting the development of the town, as well as its two patron saints.  In 1993 the bridge fell victim to a blaze, which was blamed on a carelesly discarded cigarette.  The flames detroyed a large part of the structure, incuding 78 of th 111 famous pictures.  The bridge was swiftly rebuilt and inaugarated and reopened to pedestrians on 14 April 1994.





I had my selfie stick with me and thought a picture from the bridge would be lovely but I had a hard time getting it to work so Sharon suggested she just take a picture of me holding it. 


I did get some pictures but none were too flattering.  The rubber tubing around the handle turns and than it is not over the button so I have to hunt to find the button and when I do I'm pressing the button so hard the veins in my neck stand out and I make funny faces.  Oh you noticed.  



We walked back over to the other side and decided it was time for a little wine and relaxation.  


We were entertained by the swans.  One was particularly entertaining.  He was a great big bully.  



He would sit here and preen and if any other swan invaded his territory while he was there or not he immediately took after it.  Every other swan seemed to just "run" when he showed up.  


Once he had preened he would float around with his wings partually spread.  He was big and beautiful but "not nice"!


After our rest we walked along the lakefront.  





This pathway was built during the tourism boom in the 19th century, when this part of the bay was filled in and fancy hotels went up-giving this city the nickname "Monte Carlo of Switzerland."














We came to this beauitful park situated amont all the "ritzy" hotels.  









I spotted the horse and saw that the back was worn so I knew that people had been sitting on it.  I was ready to go when this young man got on.  Darn!  I was going to shove him off but Sharon stopped me.  


Then, I spotted this other horse but again I was too late - I didn't think I should shove this grandfather and his grandson away.  








Our first meal which we ate at the hotel restaurant right on the river.  Grandma's meatbalss with blue mashed potatoes and vegetables.  Delicious - and beautiful!


We wandered around the old town.  Every building in the old town - whether new or rebuilt - is required to offer residental apartments to prevent this historic zone from becoming only office space and touristy shops.  

A beautiful evening!










DAY 2

We got up and enjoyed a breakfast in the hotel.  Before going out we checked the weather from our balcony and took some pictures of our view.  Not the river but nice.  


This building is located in Sternenplaz and is dominated by the colorful facade of the restaurant Fritschi.  The paintings feature symbols from Luzern's annual Mardi Gras celebration called Fasnacht. Pictured near the top of the building are the restaurant's owners - Mr and Mrs. Fritschi, celebrating Fasnacht by wearing masks and throwing oranges.  Flanking them are their trusty servanats, a nanny and a jester - who, in this case bear a striking resenmblance to the Fritchis.  Below them is the story of Fasnact: The cock calls at 5:00 in the morning the Thursday before Ash Wednesday and the people get up to frighten winter away.  Mr. and Mrs. Fritschi arrive on their wagon to kick off the festivitiees.  Flying around the scene are oranges - traditionally tossed frm the Fritschis to their adoring fans.  Once rare here in winter, oranges are special to the festivities as they mark the beginning of spring.  




The mill bridge in the background.  At one time there were 10 mills churning here.  This was themedieval  industrial center of Luzern.  The "Spreu" in the bridge's name means "chaff"( the sheath surrounding the wheat), which was separated from the wheat at the mill.  






Again there are 17th century paintings which show Luzern with the blue-and-white city and cantonal banners under the double eagle of the Holy Roman Empire - a reminder that the emperor granted free status to the city.  Like the other wooden bridge, this was part of the city fortification, its downstream defending  wall is higher.  





Midway across is this little 16th century chapel, built to guard against destruction by flood.  A line of family crests on the door frame acknowledges the volunteers who, over the years, have kept the chapel decorated according to the season.  




The big river flows out of the lake.  Lake Luzern's main source of water is snowmelt, which trickles in from streams coming off the surrounding mountains.  The water drains out of the lake here on its way to the Rhine.  Luzern is responsible for controlling the flow of water and preventing the flooding of lakeside villages by maintaining the lake level.  In the mid-19th century, the city devised and built a simple yet ingenious extendable dam (Nadelwehr) "spiked weir").  When the water is highest in the spring they remove spikes to open the flow;as the summer wears on and the water level drops, they gradually broaden the dam to keep the flow steady.  In the winter, they close the dam entirely to keep the lake level high enough for boats.  




Our next visit was to the Musegg Wall.  I had taken pictures of our ascent.  It was up hill all the way.  
We found this little interesting nature formation on our climb. 



There were beautiful views.


We finally reached the Zyt Tower which was erected in 1403 for defensive and timekeeping purposes.  At the time, it accommodated the oldest public clock in existence.  The clock turret once rose alone above the battlements until 1508, when it was incorporated within the tower's newly created attic floor.  The clock mechanism was replace in 1535.  It has the privilege of chiming the hour one minute before the other clocks in the town.  


As you entered the tower there was a gigantic clock similar to the smaller version below.  Unfortuantely the picture is gone.  

Each level had some of the workings of the timepiece. 


And we climbed and climbed

and climbed some more. 


These last steps were a little high.






Looking down from the top!


Looking out from the top.









I have no idea what this statue was.  I had taken two picture of it and would you believe I had both pictures left on my iPad.  Some great pictures gone and this... Who was deleting those picturs?  Oh, I was.




We planned on walking along the wall but there is a great deal of construction going on.  This monument is of national significance because it plays a significant role in the lives of the indigenous flora and fauna.  The wall is home to the country's second largest colony of jackdaws.  They, as well as alpine and common swifts, are attracted by the crannies and niches the stonework provides for roosting and nesting.  Some 10 pairs of goosanders have made their nests in the Musegg towers.  When the young fledge, the goosander families are accompanied by residents and the police as they make their way from the wall to the River Reuses.  





As we headed down we came upon a groups of students outside their school singing and dancing celebrating the end of the term.  I really wanted to join them but once again, I refrained.  






I'm sure you all took notice of our shoes on this outing since we are the fashionistas on this trip.  By the time we got down the hill our feet were not happy - sandals are not great walking and climbing shoes.  We had no idea how much walking we were going to do when we started out. Once on level ground we headed back to the hotel to get our walking shoes.  There was a little maket going on along the river.  Sharon was detained for a bit so I walked up and down and than just sat and rested my weary feet in front of the hotel. 




Our next stop was the Culture and Conference Center.  This building was finished in 1998 and features a concert hall that hosts the Luzern Festival.  It also holds the Luzern Museum of Art.  Lake water is pumped up, into, through, and out of this building.  If you were to wander around its far side, you'd see open channels that go right through the middle of the structure.  The architect claims the design recalls earlier times, when this area was swampland...but it more likely recalls his own original plans for the building.  The architect wanted to put the center out in the middle of the lake.  When he was voted down by the people of Luzern, he decided to surround it with water anyway.  





We enjoyed a cup of coffee and the view!




Next, the Lion Monument.  It's free!!!!  The huge sculpture (33 feet long by 20 feet tall) is carved right into a cliff face, over a reflecting pool in a peaceful park.  The mighty lion rests his paw on a shield with his head cocked to one side, tears streaming down his cheeks.  In his side is the broken-off end of a spear, which is slowly killing the noble beast.  Note the angle of the spear, which matches the striations of the rock face, subtly suggesting more spears raining down on the lion.  This heartbreaking figure represents the Swiss mercenaries who were killed or executed defending the French king in the French Revolution.  The inscription reads, "To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss."









We walked bacck to the hotel, freshened up and went to dinner at a Chinese Restaurant.  We just wanted something differnt and hadn't had Chinese food since Amsterdam.  It was a lovely restaurant and had very good food!

As we walked around we heard the sounds of "horns".  Walking across the bridge were these men and women with the alphorn.



They set up and we had a little concert.  I had tried to make music on one of these while at a lodge in Wisconsin which had a little Swiss Chalet restaurant.    I couldn't even make a sound.  These horns were originally used for communication in most mountainous regions of Europe.  Thanks for the telephone!





DAY 3

This was the first major Baroque church , Jesuitenkirche, in Switzerland, built from 1666 to 1677.  It's dedicated to the great missionary Francis Xavier, a co-founder of the Jesuit order.  We were lucky enough to catch aconcert at the church at noon.  We didn't understand any of the readings except a few English phrases every once in a while but the singer and accompanist were exceptional and the acoustics of the building were wonderful.  


The interior of the church once dripped with Baroque stucco.  It's been retouched in the lighter Rococo style.  Rich as it looks there's no real marble here- what you see on the altar. pulpit, and side-chapel altars is stucco made from ground-up marble laid smootly and economically upon a wooden foundation.










A nice sculpture of a shepherd.  It's not far from the churh and lead us right into a very nice shopping area.  Oh dear - we got into a little trouble in a couple of shops.  Remember I said we were traveling light - things changed that day!


Thhis is a terrible picture of the train Bahnhofplatz - the transportation hub of Luzern.  It is a lovely new building.



OUr last evening in Luzern we decided to have the traditional fondu.  We had a small salad with it.  Very good but rich!




This young man was our waiter the day we arrived and he always was so nice to us when he saw us so when I asked to have my picture taken with him he obliged. So nice!



The last picture of the lake and the mountains.  Tomorrow, Zermatt!






















































































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