A WEEK IN AVIGNON

We have been in Avignon almost a week now.  We left the Hotel Bonapart very early last Saturday so we could get a little bit to eat before boarding the train to Avignon.  We were also a little concerned that someone might not be available at the front desk to call us a taxi.  That was not an issue when we got to the lobby.  A cab was called and we waited in our very red hotel lobby.  

I chatted with Mr. Bonapart and Sharon looked after the bags.

The lobby was everything Napoleon and

red.  I wish I would have taken pictures of the red furniture.  You can see that the carpet and walls were red.  Maybe a little like a bordello.  It was very comfortable and a great location.  So what's a little red!

A little French breakfast at the train station and we were on our way.

                           

We arrived in Avignon and the manager of the apartment was nice enough to pick us up and drive us to the apartment.  Our new address is 7 Rue Victor Hugo.  So French!  We are located on the 2nd floor ( in the US it would be the 3rd floor) .  We will be getting our exercise.  The apartment is lovely.  We have three bedrooms and two baths, a spacious livingroom and a large kitchen.  Not much counter space but for the amount of cooking we will be doing plenty adequate,  There is an induction stove.  New experience.  I've been  on utube trying to figure it out.  We can boil, we just can't simmer anything!

After kind of settling in we decided it was so nice we should get out and walk around and get some groceries - at least something for breakfast in the morning.  

                                                        

Our first glass of wine in Avignon.

 The grocery store was closed so we found a little patisserie and bought some coissants for breakfast. We had coffee - so all set.  However, we needed to eat dinner and finding a place open for dinner early posed a problem.  We finally found a little restaurant that had some sandwiches and salads, etc. so we grabbed a bite and headed home.  We were tired after a very long day.

On the way back we could see part of the large city wall which surrounds the old town where we are living.

Next morning breakfast and than off to explore the city some more and get to the grocery store.

                                  

It was Sandra's last evening with us so I got on trip advisor and picked out what I hoped would be a nice restaurant.   It was perfect.  I think there would be a consensus on that one. 

The restaurant is fairly new and was opened by the son of an owner of a well known restaurant here in Avignon.  It is actually the number  one pick on trip advisor for this city.  It was not disappointing.  I think because its new its a little cheaper than some of the better known restaurants but the food certainly did not  disappoint.  

The street, Rue des Teinturies  (roughy translated the Dyers' Street)i s a protected site.  The name comes from the guild of the makers of the "Indiennes" fabric ( provencal cotton textiles inspired by designs from India) which worked along the banks of the river.  Carders, spinners and dyers used the energy generated by the many water wheels on the river.  There were 23 water wheels in 1817.  The cobblestones and shady plane trees add to the charm.  There's much history along this street so will definitely be back to explore. 

                                                  

We were greeted by the owner/ chef who welcomed us and set us at our reserved table.  His sister, who spoke english was absolutely charming.  

So many good things to choose from.  

The llitle carousel had three menu cards - starter, entre and dessert.  

                                         

Here's what I selected - just incase this isn't clear enough to read - my starter: Ravioles of spiny lobster and green asparagus,shavings and foam of truffle, entre:  Iberian Black Pork, Grenailles potatoes and Fresh Mushrooms, southern vegetables, and to finish: Vaxherin of Pears and tonka beans, vanilla from Madagascar!  We had a carafe of their house white and I can only say the meal was devine.  I can hardly wait to return!

Unfortunately the day Sandra was to leave  was raining  and icky.  I forgot to mention that when we went to the train station to buy Sandra's ticket to the airport in Marsailles we discovered that the trains were on stike the next day except for the slow train that required two stops. The bus also had a number of stops so a taxi was arranged and she was picked up and delivered to her hotel near the airport.  Happy to say she had great accommodations and made the plane and all connections without incident.  

Sharon had read about a fresh market that was open everyday in Avignon.  We decided to check it out and didn't have a lot of trouble finiding it and found that it was a great place to buy meats, produce. pasta's and more.  We found that the supermarket did not have the greatest produce so were happy to find another place to go.  Unfortunately, things are not as convenient here in Avignon as in Amsterdam but its not bad and we'll just have to plan a little better.  Sharon's in charge of that!

Down the street.

Voila!  The market - Les Halles!

Before we could step in we were approached by a young man on his mission trip with the Church of the Later Day Saints.  Such a nice young man whom we really enjoyed talking with.  He vounteered to take our picture in front of the matket.

The first booth - wine!Did they know I was coming?

Interesting fish.  

Varity of salts and herbs.

                                         

                                     

Here's our first meal at home trying to figure out how to cook on the stove top - induction cooking.  Interesting!  didn't turn out too badly.  Was actually nice to eat in for a change.  

One day we decided to go outside the city wall and see the river and the Pont Saint Benezet and the Palais des Papes.  Of course to get  outside the old city and view the bridge you pass through the ramparts. They are awsome!

The Pont St Benezet, named after the shepherd whose heavenly vision and determination led to the bridge being built.  It spans the two channels of the River Rhone and the island in between.  The bridge was built between 1177 and January 1185.  Originally it was made of wood and had to be continuously rebuilt as it was the only crossing which provided a link between the Mediterranean and Lyon, an important trade hub in the Middle Ages.  The bridge was washed away in the mid 1600's.  Today only 4 of its orginal 22 arches  remain.  The foliage in the foreground just happens to be rosemary.  I don't think any will be missed if I just happen to need some to cook with.  

Our next visit was to the Palais des Papes ( Palace of the Popes).  

It is quite an impressive site.  It covers more than one hectare  ( 107,639 square feet) and has ben part of UNESCO world Heritage since 1995.  This palace of Popes was built in the 14th century and in two different phases- the Palais Vieux and the Palais Neuf and was decorated with outstanding fresco's.  The Petit Palace, which stands at the end of the square was a former Cardinal Palace.  It is currently a museum.

This building, below is the former Mint built in 1619 by Pope Paul V Borghese.  

Very impressive area in which to buy your tickets.

Some modern art in this courtyard.

                            

This is one of the few original ceilings.

The treasuries where the valuables were stored.  As late as 1985 sacks of gold were found in  floor repositories.  

                                       

                                              

And there were lots of stairs - lots and lots!

Magnificent rooms.  This room was the Conclave ,the  banquet hall. The ceiling was painted with stars and looked like the evening sky.  The room was also decorated with magnificent tapestries.  

The Pope did not eat with the people but had his own separate area for dining.  

                                               

                                                  

                                           

                                 

Sainte Catherine De Sienne

The Grand Chapel.  Again, an artist desplay in the chapel.

                             

Bust of Benedict XIII ( 1334-1342).  

Recumbent bust of Clement VIII (1378-1393).

                                      

The recumbent effigies of the Popes.  

                                   

Throughout his long pontificate, Clement V suffered from stomach cancer, to which he eventually succumbed as he was traveling back to his birthplace in the Bordelais in 1314.  He died at Roquemaure in the Gard and his body was taken to the church at Uzeste in the Gironde, where he was interred.  

C

                                    

Gallery of the Popes.

Wonferful views from on high.

                                               

The view from above and a most welcome site - a cafe!

Of course there would be a few more stairs!

We had a lovely lunch.  Talked with some people from Annapolis, Maryland who were on a tour and stopped in Avignon for just a few hours.

 A great tart and salad!

Some more lovely and impressive views!

                                      

                                          

We got up and so downn we had to go.  We finally made it to the bottom and the end of the tour.

We headed home to rest our weary feet and legs.  

Window displays of these cute depictions of  life in Provence

If we ever run out of soap.Yes, those are all soap bars and that's only a portion of the store.

We got home and rested and were way to tired to cook so we went out to a "little French restaurant" in the square and had a lovely beef strew.  ( This was taken after the fact.)  Ordinarily I could get by with saying this was before we went into dinner but if you notice, Sharon decided to change her outft and it's rather obvious.  She had worn the same clothes for ,oh, 3 or 4 days.  One more day wouldn't have hurt and I would n't have to even mention that this picture was taken on another day.  

This was the photo  taken on the actually evening as we were waiting for our food!

Just a few things to end with.  We have our French SIM cards  - phones are good to go! 

 I got my first haircut.  

           Just 5 doors down from the apartment.

                                                          

We've become familiar with the grocery store.

                                                        

And we had our first bit of excitement.  A blackout!  We were cooking dinner and all of a sudden everything went black.  We noticed lights on everywhere else so it was our apartment.  There is a fuse box but I hated flipping anything and nothing was triggered so we called David.  He arrived in a few minutes - couldn't get it going so he called a city electrician.  He came over - just a sweet man who pushed everything and still couldn't get it going.  Finally he went outside the apartment and found anothe fuse box and Voila!  the lights were on and we were ready to complete our Mexican taco meal!

Yum ,yum!  

Thank goodness for cell phone flashlights.

Now our first week is at an end.  I found this bit of great advice on one of the streets and I'll pass it on to you!